Dressing Mastery: Unveiling the Art of Refined Style in a Classic Suit

A man's dressing skill rests on his ability to wear the simplest clothes to individual perfection. We all know someone who looks good in whatever they throw on. But for others, well, let's say no more. Learning how to dress well is easier than it may appear. Like anything in life, acquiring the right skills comes with correct practice. Without a working knowledge of the basics, a man can not expect to master anything - let alone look impeccably stylish. 

The first step in developing your dressing skills is mastering a standard scheme of Dark Suit, White Shirt, Solid Tie, Pocket Square and Black Shoes. If you are attending an interview for a high-level job or a fancy cocktail party, chances are that you will be wearing a classic suit. It would help if you got it right. This guide will ensure you look more like James Bond than school physics teacher the next time you reach for your favourite suit.

While pattern and colour usually attract the eye first, proportion leaves the most significant impression. To start off, keep it simple, choose black, navy or grey that way you can concentrate on the most critical detail - fit.

It is irrelevant how much your suit costs if it does not fit right. Too big, you will look sloppy. Too small, you will still look sloppy. The suit jacket requires particular attention, and there are five key details to consider.

The Shoulder - The jacket shoulder sets the tone for the rest of the jacket and should highlight your natural silhouette. If a suit makes a man, then the shoulder makes the suit. Cut too narrow, the head will appear significantly more prominent than its actual size. Alternatively, cut too wide, and the head will appear inordinately small. The shoulder width must be generous enough to allow the jacket fabric to fall from the shoulder in an unbroken line down the sleeve. There should be enough room across the back and chest so the lapels lie flat and the arms move freely.

The Length -The cardinal rule is that your suit jacket must be long enough to cover the curvature of the buttocks while offering the leg as long a line as possible. It is usual for a jacket to be slightly longer in the back than the front to hang correctly. When determining the correct length of your jacket, drop your hand to your side; the bottom of your jacket should line up with the knuckle of your outstretched thumb.

The Waist Button -The waist button of a suit jacket functions as its central point. A button placed too high will shorten the torso, and if placed too low, the torso will appear longer at the expense of the leg length. When the waist button is fastened, it should divide the body so that both the torso and legs appear at maximal size. If your jacket is too tight, this will be apparent in the 'X'-shaped lines that form on either side of the fastened button. There should be enough room to sit down comfortably when buttoned up. However, it's perfectly acceptable to unfasten your button when sitting down.

The Collar - The jacket's collar should hug the wearer's neck. The collar should not bunch, and there should be no space between the jacket collar and the shirt collar. The back of the collar should always be at a height where at least half an inch of the shirt collar is showing above it, ensuring the jacket looks best and drapes correctly.

The Sleeve - Correctly fitting jacket sleeves offer a sleek, well-formed grace to the wearer's arm. They should hang straight, with no wrinkles or breaks on the upper arm. The sleeve should be full towards the top and gradually taper down to the wrist bone. Most men will discover that they need to wear their jacket sleeves longer. A sleeve should extend to where the wrist breaks into the hand. The band of shirt between the sleeve and hand is a sartorially stylish gesture of a well-turned-out man, and no less than half an inch of shirt cuff should show below the jacket cuff. If your arms are longer, you can extend this to three-quarter inches for a proportionate appearance. 

When choosing the correct fit of your trousers, the principal rule is to wear them as high on the waist as comfortable; this will help the waist appear slimmer and the legs appear longer. Trousers positioned on the hip will make the crotch hang too low and will look sloppy. Today, most suit trousers are pleated with a longer rise, allowing them to sit higher and fuller at the knee than at the bottom, following the body's natural line. Correct trouser length can vary depending on where you take your advice, but the two most common schools of thought are that the trousers should be long enough so they rest with a slight break on the shoe. The more continental approach is a trouser that sits slightly on the shoe, occasionally showing some sock.

In the 19th century, when large sections of the population were impoverished, wearing white signified prestige. The white dress shirt was considered the pinnacle of men's refinement and suggested a man had sufficient status or wealth. One of male attire's most important -but least understood- functions is to lead the viewer's eye towards the face. No piece of men's clothing is better equipped to enhance a man's face than the shirt's. Choosing the appropriate shirt should be guided by the collar and its relationship to the face. If a collar is too small, the head will appear large; if it sits too low, the neck will appear overly long. With the top button closed, you should be able to slide two fingers comfortably between the neck and collar. A buttoned-up shirt should not create tension across the torso and should be full enough that the front does not gape open when seated. You should be able to raise your arms without the shirt pulling out of the trouser top. If it does, then your shirt should be longer. The shirt's cuff should fit comfortably around your wrist - if your hand can slide through the cuff without unfastening it, it is too big.

The size of a suit's lapel has always determined the correct width of the necktie. But seeing as we are yet to cover lapels, we will assess tie width by the wearer's body shape. A man with narrow shoulders dictates that the width of the tie should follow suit. Meanwhile, a broad-shouldered man should opt for a wider-proportioned tie. The key to an aesthetic-looking tie lies in the compression of the knot so that it rises into the inverted V of the collar opening. A dimple should appear from under the middle of the knot to further increase its elegant charm. There is a whole array of tying procedures, but keep it classic and master the Four-in-Hand.

No man can consider himself well-dressed without knowing how to wear the simple white pocket square with elegance and poise. Many argue that a suit is complete only with one, and I agree. The most stylish and classic way to wear your pocket square is with a simple straight fold echoing the slant of the jacket's lapel.

An intentionally well-dressed man knows that his shoes are the foundation of a refined ensemble. Maintaining a well-polished pair of shoes can go a long way in making you stand out from the crowd. To keep things simple, choose a black plain cap oxford lace-up for a classic, comfortable shoe that suits whatever your calendar throws at you.